A Travellerspoint blog

Mui Ne..... again.

Backtracking to the beach.

all seasons in one day

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Our plan to continue on the the beach resort of Nha Trang failed miserably. From the moment we arrived in Dalat we heard rumours of blocked & broken mountain roads and met travellers who had spent a few days trying to get a bus out of there. After two nights we were miraculously informed that our bus to Nah Trang would be running, so we got up at 7am and hopped on our miracle bus! ..... 5 minutes later the driver got a call saying the road was once again closed and our choice was simple: Cold Wet Dalat or Mui Ne.

We all chose Mui Ne.

So we were heading in the wrong direction - but at least we were moving!
After about 20 mins the skies started to clear and the sun came out! Then a few hours into the journey the bus stopped. In front of us was a lorry in the middle of the road, a lot of crates and bags, and 15 or so people milling around. We jumped out of the bus to see what the hold up was and saw another truck on its side, halfway down the steep bamboo-lined hillside. Relieved to here the driver had survived the accident, we realised that our road was blocked by the relief truck, here to rescue the lorry's contents (300 boxes and bags of vegetables).

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While it was a shame to be travelling in the wrong direction, we were glad to back in a sunny beach resort and arrived with a new set of friends from our bus journey, James (an Aussie we met in Saigon), Oli (German yah?) and Jess, a fellow Londoner. We recovered from the cold by walking on the beach, swimming in the sea and filling up once again on seafood at Bo Ke, (the owner now seemed like an old friend).

Posted by aspindi 21:19 Archived in Vietnam Tagged bus dalat muine bo_ke Comments (0)

Dalat - Vietnam's City of Love

Or an Asian San Francisco?

rain

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The weather took a turn for the worse and after 24 hours of non-stop drizzle and storms we took a noisy minibus (the drivers sound their horn at any opportunity here) up into the hills to the city of Dalat.

Kitsch and colourful buildings, flower filled landscaping, and a replica Eiffel Tower have all turned the city into a local honeymooners getaway and Dalat reminded us a lot of San Francisco with it's pastel-coloured houses, hills and misty, foggy climate. We took a lovely cable car ride across the pine-covered hills to a lovely lake and pagoda (home of the best windchimes of all time).

Sadly, as the rainfall increased our love of Dalat decreased; we fell out of love with Dalat, it was freezing cold, I (Jo) got a cold, and it failed to stop raining for the whole two nights we were there.

We had hoped to take an Easy Rider motorbike tour on our second day but it was too wet so instead we braved the weather in a minibus with Vicky and Benjy, an English couple we met in Mui Ne, two Swedish girls and our amazingly smiley happy tour guide Fuk.

First stop - Crazy House. Does exactly what it says on the tin. Designed by a Russian trained Vietnamese architect, this lady is the Gaudi of 'Nam. Stepping inside the house we converted to children and, despite the rain, ran around up and down staircases snapping photos.

We visited a pretty flower farm and a coffee plantation – although at this point we we're all distracted by a road rage fight involving two men on motorbikes, an umbrella, a rock and a lot of shouting. After that we took a wet and dangerous clamber across rocks to see a huge waterfall, probably the most forceful I’d ever seen (although it was fairly brown, so not as picturesque as usual). Following a trip to a pagoda to see a big fat laughing Buddha, and a spot of pho at a local cafe we moved on to a silk farm and factory. Finally, the last stop on the trip, we were introduced to the oh-so-hygienic (not!) process of rice wine fabrication.

How to make rice wine (Vietnamese village style):

Step 1: Some old rice sits at the back of someones house on the ground for a week or two, exposed to the elements, a filthy bird cage suspended above, and featuring regular visits from the family dog when it fancies a sniff/pee/bite to eat.

Step 2: After a spell fermenting in a giant plastic barrel, where it takes on a pungent banana-like aroma, Granny tips the rice into a large vat of water and cooks it for several hours until the alcohol evaporates.

Step 3: The distilled liquor is piped away and Granny then grabs the leftover hot rice slop and gives it to the pigs. To achieve a real vintage, the rice alcohol is then put into the ground for six or so months to mature.

Step 4: Once ready, it is the custom to add some sort of animal/random matter to the wine – snake, silk worm, cockroach, toad, dead bird, bark – whatever is readily available will suffice.

Hmmm – tastes like rotten vodka. We've been politely declining it since our enlightenment.

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Posted by aspindi 21:00 Archived in Vietnam Tagged dalat silk rice_wine crazy_house Comments (0)

Massive Mui Ne

Vietnam's longest beach resort?

zbeach.jpgWe spent four glorious days at the kite surfing beach capital of Vietnam – Mui Ne. This is the longest beach resort I think I have ever seen. We spent our days zipping up and down on motorbikes (mainly on the back as, although we did try to rent our own, we we're hopeless and gave up) and eating and drinking.

We met some sporty Canadians - Erin and Jordan - and biked up to the red sand dunes in convoy along with the Westwick sisters and Kiwi Paul.

scallops

scallops

We discovered a brilliant outdoor seafood restaurant Bo Ke where you choose your fish (still alive!) and have it barbecued in front of you at the beach. India has not stopped talking about the scallops which were served up in shells and cooked with spring onions and a sweet soy sauce. A whole plate will set you back less than a quid!

Our guesthouse owners (Hai Yen) were not the friendliest but they did keep their coconuts in the freezer creating the perfect breakfast drink of ice cold coconut juice!

z-boke.jpgOur evenings were spent at Pogo's beach bar, Wax nightclub and then on night four, after the weather took a turn for the worst, we checked ourselves into the local salon for a 60min full body massage and watched Transformers (the film) in our room.

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Next stop, Vietnam's city of love - Dalat.

Posted by aspindi 20:32 Archived in Vietnam Tagged beach seafood Comments (0)

The Highlight of Saigon

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THIS DOG! Being spoon-fed noodle-soup. CUTE!!

Posted by aspindi 02:34 Archived in Vietnam Tagged dog Comments (0)

The City with Two Names

Ho Chi Minh or Saigon....you decide.

all seasons in one day
View Flying South on aspindi's travel map.

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So we arrive in Saigon, literally choose the first hotel we see and then set off to explore the city..... well, explore the backpacker area, which we failed to leave for two days! Full of bars, imitation oil painting shops and tourists! Its almost like London.... but with more motorbikes. For anyone who hasn't been to Saigon/Hanoi before crossing the road is AN EXPERIENCE! The official advice is to just walk slowly, and the motorbikes (should) stop for you.

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We had our first Pho Bo (beef noodle soup) of the trip, for less than quid, and then we met up with Duncan, a friend from Bath who moved to Saigon a month ago, and his sweet Vietnamese friend Ut, and had a pretty big night out with them and Paul, who we met in Kampot, and Amy & Laura, two sisters who (wait for it Vicky) hail from Monkton Farleigh! Although the next day was a bit of a write-off, due to the previous nights alcohol related activities, the day after we visited the fabulously 60's reunification palace and ended the day with sunset cocktails on the 26th floor of the Sheraton.

On our last day, we shunned the tourist trap that is Chu Chi tunnels (Jo said she would be claustrophobic), and instead went "off the beaten track" to a weird empty olympic sized swimming pool, making the mistake to walk in the hot, noisy, polluted streets, instead of just taking a taxi.

Posted by aspindi 04:03 Archived in Vietnam Tagged saigon ho_chi_minh Comments (1)

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